Vitamin C, Decoded: How to Choose It and How to Use It
Vitamin C is one of the most-loved ingredients in skincare for good reason: as an antioxidant, it helps the appearance of dullness and uneven tone and supports a bright, healthy-looking complexion. It is also one of the most misunderstood. Here is what we look for when we formulate, and what to look for when you shop.
The forms of vitamin C
“Vitamin C” on a label can mean several different molecules. The best known is L-ascorbic acid — effective, but notoriously unstable once exposed to air, light and water. That is why some serums turn orange, then brown, within weeks.
Derivatives such as 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid, the form we use in Morning Light, are engineered to stay stable in a water-based formula while still delivering visible brightening results. They also tend to feel gentler on skin.
Does the percentage matter?
To a point. More is not automatically better; a well-formulated serum at a moderate concentration, used every day, will outperform a high-percentage formula that has oxidised in the bottle or that you stop using because it stings. We settled on 15% after months of testing for the balance of visible results and comfort.
Packaging is part of the formula
Light and air are vitamin C’s enemies. Look for amber or opaque glass and a small bottle you will finish within about three months. Keep it in a cabinet rather than on a sunny windowsill.
What to pair it with
- Ferulic acid and vitamin E — antioxidant partners that help keep vitamin C fresh.
- Hyaluronic acid — layer Deep Water afterwards for a plump, dewy finish.
- Sunscreen — always, every morning.
When to use it
Morning, after cleansing and before moisturizer. Antioxidants make the most sense in the hours your skin spends outdoors. If your skin is new to vitamin C, start every other morning for a week, then move to daily.
Results build with consistency. Most of our customers tell us they notice a brighter, more even look somewhere between weeks three and six.
